Chearoco is a big peak which looks a lot more impressive close up than from the altiplano, from where it is partly obscured by fore peaks. It can be accessed from the west and east, with the western approach via the Kelluani valley being quickest. This approach has been avoided for years due to reports of foreigners having difficulties with the locals but is now safe.
Western access: From La Paz pass through El Alto heading north on the main road to Copacabana and Lake Titicaca. Turn off right to Peñas and then right onto the dirt road once in the village. This takes you past Kerani to the village of Chachacomani. Carry straight on and turn right soon after crossing a bridge just out of the village. This road will take you all the way to Estancia Kelluani, the small group of farms at the road end.
Eastern access: Follow the road towards Peñas, turning right onto a dirt road just before the bridge when the road heads into the hills. Follow the dirt road until shortly after crossing the only significant bridge on the road where you turn right onto another rocky road. This road now leads all the way to Lloco Loconi, the small settlement near Cerro Jankho Laya. From here a track heads NW, crosses a pass and descends to the Rio Waraco. Descend this valley to where it meets the Chiquini valley and then ascend this taking the left branch towards Chearoco, which is prominent at its head.
Vehicles can be left at the house of Don Santos and Edson, the last house in the valley. They can arrange mules and guide parties to base camp and high camp. If you want mules you need to call Edson (73261732) ahead of time as they need to be brought up from a lower village.
From road end to base camp is about 3 hours walk. From base camp to high camp is another 2-3 hours.
Chearoco routes from the South
1 South west face AD+
2 Original route AD+ A Horeschowsky, H Hortinagel 1928
3 South west spur AD+ G Ferrari, A Gemli, F Gugiatti, G Lanfranconi, C Zappelli, M Vitale, K Marmori June 1978
4 South face AD
5 South east ridge access
Notes: The original route is considerably harder than it was due to snow loss and the SW spur route passes under active ice cliffs. The South face is now the most climbed route.
The normal finish to the routes 1-4 once in the snow basin below the summit is the middle line shown above. This can be cut off by a large bergshrund, particularly later in the season. The options if this is the case are to climb the left, SW, ridge or head right to join the top of the SE ridge.
Chearoco from the south east
1 Southwest Spur AD+ G Ferrari, A Gemli, F Gugiatti, G Lanfranconi, K Marmori, M Vitale, C Zappelli June 1978
2 Southeast Ridge AD+ J Floodpage, R Hunter, E Quicke Aug 1962