Chearoco

Chearoco is a big peak which looks a lot more impressive close up than from the altiplano, from where it is partly obscured by fore peaks. It can be accessed from the west and east, with the western approach via the Kelluani valley being quickest. This approach has been avoided for years due to reports of foreigners having difficulties with the locals but is now safe.

Western access: From La Paz pass through El Alto heading north on the main road to Copacabana and Lake Titicaca. Turn off right to Peñas and then right onto the dirt road once in the village. This takes you past Kerani to the village of Chachacomani. Carry straight on and turn right soon after crossing a bridge just out of the village. This road will take you all the way to Estancia Kelluani, the small group of farms at the road end.

Eastern access:  Follow the road towards Peñas, turning right onto a dirt road just before the bridge when the road heads into the hills. Follow the dirt road until shortly after crossing the only significant bridge on the road where you turn right onto another rocky road. This road now leads all the way to Lloco Loconi, the small settlement near Cerro Jankho Laya. From here a track heads NW, crosses a pass and descends to the Rio Waraco. Descend this valley to where it meets the Chiquini valley and then ascend this taking the left branch towards Chearoco, which is prominent at its head.

Western Access:

Vehicles can be left at the house of Don Santos and Edson, the last house in the valley. They can arrange mules and guide parties to base camp and high camp. If you want mules you need to call Edson (73261732) ahead of time as they need to be brought up from a lower village.

From road end to base camp is about 3 hours walk. From base camp to high camp is another 2-3 hours.

Access route to Kelluani valley base camp (1024x680)

Track to base camp. Lower Kelluani Valley.

Access route to Kelluani valley base camp upper vally (1024x680)

Track to base camp, upper Kelluani valley.

High camp access route lower part (1024x527)

Access to high camp. From base camp ascend the moraine wall to the SE and follow a small track.

Route to high camp upper (1024x680)

Upper section of the route to high camp. Camp spots marked. Water is down at the glacier.

Chearoco routes from the South

Chearoco routes from Sth (1024x680)

1  South west face   AD+

2  Original route  AD+          A Horeschowsky, H Hortinagel   1928

3  South west spur  AD+          G Ferrari, A Gemli, F Gugiatti, G Lanfranconi, C Zappelli, M Vitale, K Marmori   June 1978

4  South face  AD

5  South east ridge access

Notes:  The original route is considerably harder than it was due to snow loss and the SW spur route passes under active ice cliffs. The South face is now the most climbed route.

The normal finish to the routes 1-4 once in the snow basin below the summit is the middle line shown above. This can be cut off by a large bergshrund, particularly later in the season. The options if this is the case are to climb the left, SW, ridge or head right to join the top of the SE ridge.

Chearoco from the south east

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

1   Southwest Spur   AD+      G Ferrari, A Gemli, F Gugiatti, G Lanfranconi, K Marmori, M Vitale, C Zappelli    June 1978

2   Southeast Ridge   AD+   J Floodpage, R Hunter, E Quicke   Aug 1962

Chearoco summit(1024x680)

Summit of Chearoco