Condoriri and its 2 outlying peaks, the left and right ‘wings’ have a good number of snow and ice routes between them. The South West Ridge of the Cabeza de Condor (head of the Condor) is a classic ridge climb well worth the effort. Access is generally from the Laguna Chiar Khota base camp. There is a much more remote base camp at the Laguna over the Pico Austria pass that also gives access to all but the Ala Derecha gullies.

Access to Cabeza de Condor, Ala Izquirda and Ala derecha snow route

Access route from Laguna Chiar Khota Base Camp as seen from the other side of the valley


Condoriri from the south

Condoriri from the south with access from base camp below Pico Austria pass.

Cabeza de Condor Routes


1   Southwest Ridge   AD+    W Kuhm   1940

2   Southwest Ridge Variation   AD+

3   Southeast Face Route   D+   J Ferrari, A Gelmi, A Mesili    Sept 1973

4 Monasterio Ogden Route  D+  E Monasterio, J Ogden   Aug 1996

Ala Izquierda Routes


1  West Ridge   AD+     J Hudson, R Laba, E Whewell, R Whewell   June 1970

2  Ramp Route  AD-

3  Left Route  D

4  French Italian Route   D-     A Gelmi, J Ferrari, A Mesili   Sept 1973

5  Ditectisima     D     F Pimienta, A Baud, A Mesili    Sept 1978

6  Right Route  D-

7  East Ridge    AD     N Coetzee, M Griffin  June 1963

Ala Izquirda from the Cabeza

Ala Izquirda from the Cabeza

Ala Derecha Gully Routes


1   Astier Gabarrou Route   TD   Y Astier, P Gabarrou   Sept 1989

2   Colibri Route    TD   Y Astier, Y Estienne, P Gabarrou   Sept 1989

3   Gully 3    D    T Bridgeland, R Goodier   July 1997

4   Gully 2   –  Believed to have been climbed but not confirmed

5   Mesili Route    TD   A Mesili   Sept 1976

Condoriri SW ridge (1024x680)

Condoriri SW ridge