There was a few days of poor weather and a reasonable storm at the end of last week. A decent amount of snow fell, 5-10cm depending on the altitude, and with strong winds this has left lee slopes with plenty of snow. A slab avalanche with a crown wall of 1m, 150m wide, was reported being released by climbers on a southern aspect at about 5500m on Huayna Potosi (to the north of the normal route). Care will need to be exercised for the next week or two on wind loaded aspects. On eastern aspects slopes have settled with the last several days of good weather. Expect some deeper drifts and crusts that may be supportive early but melt out as the day goes on. Note the cornice formation in the photo below.

Climbers descending the normal route of Huayna Potosi 27 May.

The lower eastern facing rock faces are mostly snow free but higher faces now have snow on all the ledges, as seen on the east face of Pico Italiano in the photo below. This should clear over the next couple weeks.

Pico Italiano from the south east 27 May

There is snow almost down to the Zongo Pass, seen in the pic below by the lake, on the Huayna Potosi side but the Charquini side is clear of snow.

Middle peak of Pico Milluni from High peak. 27 May.

We had a couple days of snow recently, up to 15cm up high (including 5cm down in El Alto). This has fallen on most aspects. The east facing rock in the Huayna Potosi area is already mostly clear but the southern aspects will take longer.

South peak of Pico Milluni east side 15 May 2014

South face of Pico Milluni 15 May 2014

Last week La Paz based climber Robert Rauch and partner climbed Pico Italiano via the normal route, descended to the col below the South Ridge of Huayna Potosi and followed this to the top of Huayna. They report fair conditions with the last pitch to the south summit being deep unconsolidated snow.

Tiquimani is looking as impressive as ever (and still looking for an ascent this decade, or at least an attempt!).

Tiquimani south face 15 May 2014

There is mostly snow on the face and not a lot of ice currently. There is also a bit of rockfall evident at the bottom of the two main gullies. Also the high hanging glacier is breaking up and threatening the central part of the face (which is where the French route ascends).

Tiquimani hanging glacier close up 15 May 2014