Historic route on the West face of Illampu

Recent information has come to us about a little known climb of Illampu in 1978. The West Spur route TD- was climbed over 3 days and was one of the most difficult climbs in Bolivia at the time and the first ascent of the west face.

Àlex Ossó and Òscar Cadiach, from Tarragona and Enric Dalmau and Francesc Magrinyà, of Valls made the climb with 2 bivouacs, descending the South West ridge. This was a significant climb for 40 years ago and has possibly not been repeated.

Photo courtesy of Alex Osso

Many thanks to Àlex Ossó for letting us know of the ascent.

Photo courtesy of Alex Osso

 

Francesc Magriñá, Cadiach and Enric Dalmau on the summit of Illampu.  Photo courtesy of Alex Osso

 

Ossó and Cadiach on the summit.  Photo courtesy of Alex Osso

Late July conditions and news

There has been heavy snowfall in much of the Cordillera Real over the past few days. Strong winds are forecast for the rest of the week. The Cordillera Occidental missed out on the snow and is fairly bare, icy snow slopes are prevalent with some penitente nieve formation.

Some recent climbs: The British Route on Huallomen (aka Wyoming) was climbed by 2 different teams recently. A Canadian group of 3 were helped down the mountain by local guides when one of them was injured by a chunk of ice knocked down by the leader where the route joins the summit ridge. A local team climbed a week later to recover equipment left in the rescue effort.

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Alex von Ungern mid way up the British route on the SE face of Huallomen.

 

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The final pitch before the summit ridge.

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Alex on the summit ridge

Some new route action on the east side of Pico Milluni:

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Jesus Churata on his new route Ruta de los Vikingos.

 

Pomerape (Pomerata) was recently climbed via the south face with conditions found to be icy.

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Max and Erik on the long slope to the summit of Pomerata.

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Max with Parinacota in the background.

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Sajama from Sajama village.

 

 

New Route and video June 2014

Some new routing done recently captured on video:

New Route on the Huayna Potosi massif

Another route has gone up in the Huayna Potosi area with the usual locals being the protagonists. The 8 pitch line is on the right side of the triangular pk 5600 on the south west of Pico Italiano.

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Chris Clarke on the first pitch

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Roberto Rauch on lead

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Descending the SW ridge

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Roberto on the descent.

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The route goes up the right side of the face, to the left of the large seracs.