The bouldering meet was again in Challkupunku and very well organised and attended. Well over a hundred climbers from all over the world had 3 days cranking hard on the set problems and many others. A couple crusty old mountaineers even put up some routes in a gorge. A few pics:
There is a lot of rock in Challkupunku and the sun seems to always be shining.
This character turned up on the second day… I have no idea either.
A recent shot of Illimani by Andy Baker. Cheers Andy.
The weather has been quite unsettled with few completely fine days and typically cloud coming over from the Yungas in the afternoons. Ascents are still being managed but generally getting off the tops by late morning is a good idea. There has been reasonable dumps of snow accompanied by easterly winds last Thursday and Friday. Be aware that lee slopes may be wind loaded and slab prone.
Below: Last Thursdays storm moving in on climbers (lower right) descending the normal route on Huayna Potosi.
Robert Rauch, Chris Clarke and Gregg Beisly climbed a nice line of ice and mixed to the left of Tiers of Pachamama. The three mouseketeers goes at about WI4 M5.
Chris on the upper mixed climbing:
More new route reports:
As reported in a previous post French climber Henry Bizot along with Argentinians Gabriel Fava and Carlitos Molina climbed a couple of routes that have no known previous ascents in the Quimsa Cruz. They report that the Huallatani valley, which they climbed from, is very nice with a remote feeling. It certainly seems to have had relatively few visits. Here are more details:
On the south face of Huayna Cuno Collo they climbed Charles de Seze D/D+ to the east peak on the 7th of July. The route climbs the face to the left of the previously climbed south ridge.
Earlier, on the 1st of July, René Flament D-/D was climbed on the west-southwest face of San Luis.
Hopefully the team will be back next year for more new route action. Photos supplied by Henry Bizot.
Chris Clarke (US) and Alex von Ungern (Switzerland) added a route to Wila Manquilizani (5324m), a peak to the east of Charquini. The peak is accessed most easily via the valley east of Chacaltaya. From the Eco Albergue lodge in Pampalarama a couple hours walk to the left of the peak brings you to the route.
Las Llokalles D, was climbed in a day from La Paz in August.
Photo supplied by Chris Clarke.
Back in June Chris Clarke, Paul Meehan and Gregg Beisly climbed a possible new line on Jathi Khollu via the Gully route AD.
Below: Paul Meehan on the upper rock ridge of Jathi Khollu.
Argentinian climbers Carlitos Molina and Gabriel Fava added a fantastic looking new route to Pico Del Norte in July. Ñeq’e Ñeq’e, 1000m/6b +, climbs on the left side of the northwest buttress. Find out more at www.andeslimite.net or www.thebmc.co.uk/big-new-route-in-bolivian-andes for a report in English. Earlier in July they climbed a couple of possible new routes in the Quimsa Cruz on San Luis and Cuno Huayna Collo along with Henry Bizot.
Chris Clarke, Erik Monasterio and Gregg Beisly added a route to the SW face of Gigante Grande in the Quimsa Cruz in August.
Chris Clarke midway up the southwest face of Gigante Grande
Via del Minero TD, below:
A week later Monasterio and Beisly climbed a route on the east face of Pico Italiano, a sub peak of Huayna Potosi.
Erik Monasterio high on the Pico Italiano buttress.
New route line for Arthritis TD below:
Early September Clarke and Beisly teamed up with Robert Rauch to climb a new route above the village of Totoral Pampa in the Illimani area. The unnamed peak is only 5402m high but has a southwest face of over 800m.
Roberto low on the face
Route below – the face is somewhat foreshortened in this view.
There have been a number of new routes go up since June.
More info on them soon.
The weather has been in its usual stable June – August pattern after the late June snowfalls. Temperatures have been slowly rising (until today and a sharp drop).
In the cordillera Occidental conditions are icy with penitentes growing in size.
The Quimsa cruz snow is generally well frozen. In the Cordillera Real there is a mixed bag of firm conditions and unconsolidated snow on shady aspects.