Late April Conditions – Condoriri Area

There was 10-20cm of new snow in the Condoriri area a week ago. This fell over what was an increasingly firm snow pack making climbing conditions a little more difficult but skiing and boarding superb. The classic ridges and higher faces have by now firmed up again with lower south facing gullies requiring more time for the accumulated snow to become icy. No avalanche activity observed.

Condoriri Area April 2014

Condoriri Area April 2014

The SW ridge of Condoriri last friday (25th) below.

SW ridge of Condoriri (680x1024)

SW ridge of Condoriri 25th April

Snowboarding on the Condoriri glacier above Laguna Juri Khota:

Snowboarding near Condoriri April 2014 (1024x680)

Snowboarding near Condoriri April 2014

 

New routes

Argentinian climbers Carlitos Molina and Gabriel Fava added a fantastic looking new route to Pico Del Norte in July. Ñeq’e Ñeq’e, 1000m/6b +, climbs on the left side of the northwest buttress. Find out more at www.andeslimite.net or www.thebmc.co.uk/big-new-route-in-bolivian-andes for a report in English. Earlier in July they climbed a couple of possible new routes in the Quimsa Cruz on San Luis and Cuno Huayna Collo along with Henry Bizot.

Chris Clarke, Erik Monasterio and Gregg Beisly added a route to the SW face of Gigante Grande in the Quimsa Cruz in August.

Chris on Gigante Grande (1024x680)

Chris Clarke midway up the southwest face of Gigante Grande

Via del Minero TD, below:

Gigante grande 2013 route - Copy (1024x680)

A week later Monasterio and Beisly climbed a route on the east face of Pico Italiano, a sub peak of Huayna Potosi.

Erik climbing high on route Pico Italiano

Erik Monasterio high on the Pico Italiano buttress.

New route line for Arthritis TD below:

Pico Italiano new route 2013 - Copy (1024x680)

Early September Clarke and Beisly teamed up with Robert Rauch to climb a new route above the village of Totoral Pampa in the Illimani area. The unnamed peak is only 5402m high but has a southwest face of over 800m.

Roberto exiting the first gully

Roberto low on the face

Route below – the face is somewhat foreshortened in this view.

Pk 5402 new route (1024x680)