More new routes 2013

More new route reports:

As reported in a previous post French climber Henry Bizot along with Argentinians Gabriel Fava and Carlitos Molina climbed a couple of routes that have no known previous ascents in the Quimsa Cruz. They report that the Huallatani valley, which they climbed from, is very nice with a remote feeling. It certainly seems to have had relatively few visits. Here are more details:

On the south face of Huayna Cuno Collo they climbed Charles de Seze  D/D+ to the east peak on the 7th of July. The route climbs the face to the left of the previously climbed south ridge.

Huayna Cuno Collo_Voie Charles de Seze - Copy (1024x768)

Earlier, on the 1st of July, René Flament  D-/D was climbed on the west-southwest face of San Luis.

San Luis_Voie_René_Flament  (1024x768)

Hopefully the team will be back next year for more new route action. Photos supplied by Henry Bizot.

 

Chris Clarke (US) and Alex von Ungern (Switzerland) added a route to Wila Manquilizani (5324m), a peak to the east of Charquini. The peak is accessed most easily via the valley east of Chacaltaya. From the Eco Albergue lodge in Pampalarama a couple hours walk to the left of the peak brings you to the route.

Las Llokalles D, was climbed in a day from La Paz in August.

Pampalarama

Photo supplied by Chris Clarke.

 

Back in June Chris Clarke, Paul Meehan and Gregg Beisly climbed a possible new line on Jathi Khollu via the Gully route AD.

Below: Paul Meehan on the upper rock ridge of Jathi Khollu.

DSC01932 (1024x680)

 

 

New routes

Argentinian climbers Carlitos Molina and Gabriel Fava added a fantastic looking new route to Pico Del Norte in July. Ñeq’e Ñeq’e, 1000m/6b +, climbs on the left side of the northwest buttress. Find out more at www.andeslimite.net or www.thebmc.co.uk/big-new-route-in-bolivian-andes for a report in English. Earlier in July they climbed a couple of possible new routes in the Quimsa Cruz on San Luis and Cuno Huayna Collo along with Henry Bizot.

Chris Clarke, Erik Monasterio and Gregg Beisly added a route to the SW face of Gigante Grande in the Quimsa Cruz in August.

Chris on Gigante Grande (1024x680)

Chris Clarke midway up the southwest face of Gigante Grande

Via del Minero TD, below:

Gigante grande 2013 route - Copy (1024x680)

A week later Monasterio and Beisly climbed a route on the east face of Pico Italiano, a sub peak of Huayna Potosi.

Erik climbing high on route Pico Italiano

Erik Monasterio high on the Pico Italiano buttress.

New route line for Arthritis TD below:

Pico Italiano new route 2013 - Copy (1024x680)

Early September Clarke and Beisly teamed up with Robert Rauch to climb a new route above the village of Totoral Pampa in the Illimani area. The unnamed peak is only 5402m high but has a southwest face of over 800m.

Roberto exiting the first gully

Roberto low on the face

Route below – the face is somewhat foreshortened in this view.

Pk 5402 new route (1024x680)