We had a couple days of snow recently, up to 15cm up high (including 5cm down in El Alto). This has fallen on most aspects. The east facing rock in the Huayna Potosi area is already mostly clear but the southern aspects will take longer.

South peak of Pico Milluni east side 15 May 2014

South face of Pico Milluni 15 May 2014

Last week La Paz based climber Robert Rauch and partner climbed Pico Italiano via the normal route, descended to the col below the South Ridge of Huayna Potosi and followed this to the top of Huayna. They report fair conditions with the last pitch to the south summit being deep unconsolidated snow.

Tiquimani is looking as impressive as ever (and still looking for an ascent this decade, or at least an attempt!).

Tiquimani south face 15 May 2014

There is mostly snow on the face and not a lot of ice currently. There is also a bit of rockfall evident at the bottom of the two main gullies. Also the high hanging glacier is breaking up and threatening the central part of the face (which is where the French route ascends).

Tiquimani hanging glacier close up 15 May 2014

Conditions for climbing are currently excellent on Mururata and surrounding peaks on their western aspects. Snow is frozen from 4900m to 5800m untill midday when it softens perfectly for ski descent.

On the lower Mururata Glacier

Mid section of Mururata Glacier

By 12.30 cloud from the Yungas is starting to cover most of the peaks with some light snow falling mid afternoon.

On the 18th a bit more snow will have fallen as a late afternoon storm hit parts of the cordillera.

There hasn’t been a huge amount of snow in the hills for a while until last week when 10cm fell at 4800m, 15cm at 5000m and 20cm at 5500m. This new snow has bonded pretty well with older snow under it as after the storm that dumped it we had a couple fine sunny days. There will be a fair amount of point release activity on steep solar aspects for the next few days.

Huayna Potosi from Charquini 8 March

As can be seen from the above pic most of the snow has melted from eastern aspects to just under 5000m after 1 sunny day.

Closer view of the conditions on the SE side of Huayna Potosi

Weather wise, conditions have been slowly improving with most mornings fine with the afternoons having a chance of cloud. Temperatures have been mild so it is fairly warm even up high by mid morning.

The weather has been in its usual stable June – August pattern after the late June snowfalls. Temperatures have been slowly rising (until today and a sharp drop).

In the cordillera Occidental conditions are icy with penitentes growing in size.

The Quimsa cruz snow is generally well frozen. In the Cordillera Real there is a mixed bag of firm conditions and unconsolidated snow on shady aspects.